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Lecce is a small city located in the Salento Coast area of southern Italy’s Puglia region, known as the “Florence of the South.” I had the pleasure of spending two blissful weeks in this city recently and I fell in love real quick. Make sure you read my other posts about how lovely the city is:
The local food in Lecce is delicious, and includes pastries called pasticiotto, a strong iced coffee called caffé Leccese and orchiette pasta. It’s also known for serving a cuisine called cucina povera. Cucina povera is a traditional Italian cuisine that is characterized by the use of inexpensive and readily available ingredients, often locally sourced and seasonal. It is also known as “peasant cuisine.” Cucina povera developed out of necessity, as people living in rural areas had to make the most of what they had available to them in order to feed their families. It often includes dishes made from simple, humble ingredients such as beans, vegetables, grains, and locally raised meats. But just because it’s simple food doesn’t mean it lacks deliciousness. Cucina povera is often celebrated for its flavourful and satisfying dishes – it’s cozy comfort food at it’s finest.
Pittule (Via Idomeneo, 76A)
Un cappuccino e un pasticiotto, per favore.
A coffee shop in Italy is called a bar. Look for those signs when you need a caffeine fix. Many bars in Italy also offer aperitivo, a pre-dinner ritual that consists of drinks and snacks, in the late afternoon and evening. And during the day, they serve coffee and pastries for breakfast or an afternoon pick-me-up. I love a good cappuccino but in Lecce, I fell in love with caffé Leccese. This small iced coffee is simply made with almond syrup and espresso served over ice. It’s strong, sweet and perfect for cooling off in those hot summers.
Alongside your coffee, you must have a sweet pastry. Italian pastries are delicious and often very localized. Cornetti – imagine a softer, fluffier croissant often stuffed full of jam, Nutella, or custard – are something you can find all over Italy. My favourite ones are filled with vanilla custard, but I had a lovely pistachio filled one too during this trip. But most importantly, when in Lecce, trying pasticciotto is a must. Pasticciotto are a traditional breakfast or afternoon pastry eaten in the whole region of Puglia. The glossy, oval pastries are sort of like a little pie, made with a sweet, shortcrust pastry and full of creamy vanilla custard. They can have other fillings too, but I could not get enough of the classic vanilla custard. They’re best if served warm and alongside a cappuccino or caffé Leccese, of course.
Here are some of our favourite bars for a morning caffé:
Old House Cafe
Via Taranto, 7
This bar is just outside of the city centre which immediately makes it feel more local. The staff are very friendly and the pasticiotto was absolutely heavenly. The best we had during the whole trip.
Caffè Palmieri
Via Principi di Savoia, 2
The coffee and pastries here are solid but the location is the special part of this bar. The patio area is huge and boasts a stunning view of the Porta Napoli. This bar was a stone’s throw from our Airbnb so we found ourselves here several times during our stay.
Mac Bar
Via Imperatore Adriano, 9
This bar was memorable for its helpful, friendly staff and plentiful selection of pastries.
Pizza, of course.
Whether you’re looking for a classic Neapolitan Margherita pizza or a slice loaded with toppings, Lecce delivers. Before we left for Lecce, I made myself a promise that I wouldn’t eat at a restaurant more than once during our vacation. I broke that promise for Ciro Pizzeria. I am a sucker for Neapolitan pizza and this one was the best I’ve had since I was in Naples. In addition to the amazing pizza served up here, the atmosphere is unbelievably charming. This pizzeria is located in a small square with a stunning view of the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza. And to top it all of, the staff are full of smiles and are super friendly. I’m definitely not bummed that we went here twice.
Another spot you must hit up when you’re craving a topping-laden slice of pizza is the tiny takeout pizzeria, Pizza & Co. The slices are huge and so good. I got a potato and pancetta slice and my husband got a greek slice. Both were very different but equally yummy. This popular spot is on a busy pedestrian street so if you can snag one of the few small tables outside this pizzeria then you can enjoy your pizza alongside some fantastic people-watching.
Via Principi di Savoia, 18
Via Giuseppe Libertini, 39
Pasta, please.
The pasta shape you’ll see most in Lecce is orecchiette. This type of pasta is shaped like small, round “ears” and is often served with a variety of sauces, such as a simple tomato sauce or a sauce made with a local green called cime di rape (similar to broccoli rabe). Another popular pasta dish we saw on all the menus is ciceri e tria, a pasta made with chickpeas and pieces of fried pasta. Even though Lecce isn’t on the water, it’s quite close so you’ll see seafood on the menus too. Spaghetti alle cozze is a favourite of mine and I ate a delicious one with a light, chunky tomato sauce and plump, salty mussels.
Via Luigi de Simone, 28
Via Luigi de Simone, 28
Lunch at a Pucceria.
All over Italy you can find amazing panini (sandwiches). And several sandwich shops are famous on TikTok for enthusiastically throwing together simple, rustic sandwiches that look absolutely mouthwatering. Puccia is a type of sandwich that you’ll find in Lecce. It is typically made with a round, flat, soft bread roll that is stuffed with a variety of fillings, such as salami, vegetables and cheeses. Antica Pucceria Giannone dal 1941 is a perfect spot to grab one of these sammies. I enjoyed La Barese – stuffed with mortadella (a superior bologna), soft stracciatella cheese (mozzarella prepared with cream), sun-dried tomatoes, oregano and olive oil. Plus a Fanta. Divine.
Via Giuseppe Libertini, 46
Treats.
Gelato and granita are two Italian treats that you can enjoy all over the country. Italian gelato, as I am sure you are aware, is the best ice cream on earth. And granita, which you may not know, is a is a semi-frozen dessert made from a mixture of water, sugar, and flavourings, such as fruit or nuts. It is similar to sorbet, but it has a coarser, more slushy texture. It’s usually served with both a spoon and a straw and is perfect for those hot summer days. Gelaterias are dotted all over the city and will typically also serve granita. Bars will often serve granita too. Locals will eat it any time of day when in need of a cooling treat. We tried both lemon (limone) and almond (mandorla) granita from Pasticceria Natale which is conveniently located beside Piazza Sant’Oronzo – the largest, most bustling square in the city and the perfect hang-out location to enjoy a treat. It probably isn’t the best granita in the city but it certainly hit the spot.
Via Salvatore Trinchese, 7
Baldo Gelato is known for having the best gelato in the city and it doesn’t disappoint. We savoured a couple cones on our first day in Lecce, sat on the benches outside the gelateria, next to a few locals and people-watched (as you do). Another must-try is Defriscu – Gelateria Sociale. We devoured the most amazing after-dinner pistachio gelato here. They also served some gorgeous looking granita too.
Via Idomeneo, 78
Via Giuseppe Palmieri, 69
The best new treat we tried in Lecce was espressino freddo. This coffee concoction reminded me of an affogato – espresso served over a scoop of vanilla gelato – but instead of using gelato it was more of a super soft serve ice cream. Sometimes the soft serve and espresso were combined and sometimes the soft serve sat on top of the espresso to be mixed in yourself. Either way, I had a very difficult time not inhaling it in five seconds.
Piazza Sant’Oronzo, 30
Piazza Sant’Oronzo, 16/17
An aperol spritz a day.
When 6pm rolls around, the aperol spritzeses suddenly appear on (what seems like) every table in every bar. The saying, dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing) is embodied in the aperitivo ritual in Italy. It’s my favourite part of the day and if you enjoy cocktails, you’re going to love it too. Both Aperol and Campari Spritz are popular in Lecce. Aperol is a bit more fruity and sweet while Campari leans more towards bitter. I enjoy both, especially alongside the classic aperitivo snacks: olives and/or chips.
Via Giuseppe Libertini, 31b
Via Giuseppe Palmieri, 72
via 73100, Via Umberto I, 37
Best for last. Il supermercato.
I cannot put into words how much I love going grocery shopping in other countries. I could (and have) spent hours wandering isles of supermarkets. My husband doesn’t even join anymore because I knows that it’s pure me time. Grocery shopping in Italy is an absolute joy and it’s also a good way to eat inexpensively while travelling.
Supermercato Dok was our grocer of choice while in Lecce. It was a good size market and had everything we needed. The alcohol and wine selection was robust, same for the cheese and cured meats. The produce was fresh and locally grown. The bakery section was filled with shelves of crusty bread and jars of succulent olives sat on every surface. I was particularly excited about the selection of fresh pasta and single serving packs of guanciale (a fattier, more luxurious bacon). Compared to Canada, groceries in Lecce are a fraction of the price – so you kinda get an opposite form of sticker shock.
Lecce was simply a culinary delight. From the moment I arrived, I was blown away by the delicious local food. The pastries, the gelato, the pasta, the pizza – amazing. Make sure you try them all. Overall, my love for the food in Lecce cannot be overstated. I don’t think we ate a single bad meal during our stay. I already wish I was back there so I can indulge in all these delicious eats over again. Delizioso.
Read more about this wonderful city:
Piazza Sant’Oronzo
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